Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
